Multidimensional aromas of lemon, lime, powdered stone and white flowers. Dense, silky and fat with fruit. There\'s incredible depth, volume and extract to the pineapple, stone and floral flavors but a complete absence of rough edges and no sense of excess weight. The compellingly sweet finishing flavors of lime and flowers are unflagging. A big boy but still an infant-and a great wine in the making.

Every vintage I look forward to tasting this wine because I\'m always curious about which facet of its personality will dominate, the Chevalier side or the Montrachet? In 2004, this is decidedly more Montrachet in character as this is a huge wine and while the aromatic profile is similar to the straight Chevalier, the flavors are decidedly more concentrated, more textured and possess more dry extract yet there is no loss of detail or minerality, with an explosive finish that goes on and on. The wood is presently not particularly subtle but like the Corton-Charlemagne, there is so much material here that I\'m not worried as to whether it will integrate. One of the candidates for wines of the vintage.

The 2000 Puligny-Montrachet La Richarde (from a parcel that used to be part of the premier cru Les Folatieres, but was recently declassified, as it was learned that the previous owner had added top soil to it) is a mineral, earth, and white flower-scented wine. Richly opulent, this medium-bodied, lush offering presents minerals and buttered toast-like flavors in its velvety yet zesty character. Drink it over the next 10 years.

More of this wine may be available at a higher price.

Sporting an awe-inspiring, complex nose of pears, spices and minerals, the 2002 Chablis Bougros Cote de Bouquerots (domaine) bursts on the palate, revealing great concentration, depth, purity, and length. Loads of flint, flowers, minerals, and pears can be discerned in its powerful, nuanced character as well as in its superb finish. Incidentally, Fevre owns fully half of Bougros’s 12 hectares (29.65 acres), 2 hectares (4.9 acres) of which are in the Cote de Bouquerots sector. Drink this outstanding effort over the next 10-13 years.

Produced from a 2.55 hectare parcel (6.3 acres), the magnificent 2002 Chablis Les Preuses (domaine) has a complex nose of smoky slate and spices. Medium-bodied, deep, rich, and satin-textured, it reveals an inspiring character of outstanding depth, concentration, focus, and length. Loads of creamy seashells are intermingled with flint and pears in its detailed yet powerful core. Projected maturity: 2005-2014.

Any lists of candidates of the wines of the vintage would have to include Henri Boillot\'s sumptuous 2001 Montrachet. Spiced apples, pears and white chocolate nuances can be found in its expressive aromatics. Medium-bodied, hugely ripe (yet balanced) and dense, this sublime spicy, refined, powerful wine explodes in the mouth with a myriad of spices, honeyed minerals, pears, and buttered toast. Fresh, intricate, and concentrated, it also offers an exceptionally long, flavor-imbued finish. Projected maturity: 2006-2016. Bravo!

Lafon segregates the grapes from his Meursault Charmes\' youngest vines, blending them with his village Meursault cuvee. The most intense and concentrated berries are ear-marked for his premier cru bottling. His dedication to quality is evidenced by the 1996s tantalizing floral, white peach and toast aromas. Medium-to-full-bodied, thick, and yet feminine and gracious, this superb offering combines power with lace-like definition. Ripe white peaches, flower blossoms, and traces of anise are found in this precise, pure, and ageworthy beauty. Anticipated maturity: 2003-2010. The rating, with the range of scores in parentheses, indicates the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle.

This wine has an imperfection.